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return true;" onmouseout="changeImages('octdec', 'images/octdec.gif'); return true;"> <img name="octdec" src="images/octdec.gif" width="148" height="26" border="0" alt="oct.-dec. care" /></a></td> <td> <img src="images/sidebar_26.gif" width="2" height="26" alt="" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <a href="events.html" onmouseover="changeImages('event', 'images/event-over.gif'); return true;" onmouseout="changeImages('event', 'images/event.gif'); return true;"> <img name="event" src="images/event.gif" width="148" height="26" border="0" alt="events" /></a></td> <td> <img src="images/sidebar_28.gif" width="2" height="26" alt="" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <a href="news.html" target="_new" onmouseover="changeImages('news', 'images/news-over.gif'); return true;" onmouseout="changeImages('news', 'images/news.gif'); return true;"> <img name="news" src="images/news.gif" width="148" height="27" border="0" alt="newsletter" /></a></td> <td> <img src="images/sidebar_30.gif" width="2" height="27" alt="" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <img src="images/sidebar_31.gif" width="148" height="10" alt="" /></td> <td> <img src="images/sidebar_32.gif" width="2" height="10" alt="" /></td> </tr> </table> <!-- End ImageReady Slices for sidebar --> <p style="position:absolute;margin-left:730px;margin-top:1000px"><img src="images/jpgs/deansbeam-sm.jpg" alt="Member Dean's Korean Hornbeam" /></p> <!--p style="position:absolute;margin-left:730px;margin-top:2400px"><img src="images/jpgs/indexspring09.jpg" alt="satsuki azalea from telperion farms" /></p--> <table border="0" width="550px" cellpadding="5" style="position:absolute;margin-left:170px;margin-top:100px"><tr><td> <td><img src="images/jpgs/105_Hornbeam_American_4-11-sm.jpg" alt="Member Larry contributes this lovely American Horn beam for winter interest" /> </td> <!--td><img src="images/jpgs/lunch-tiny.jpg" alt="club members enjoy a sumptuous lunch at the multi-club picnic" /> </td--> <!--td><img src="images/jpgs/beginwork3_11.jpg" alt="the nursery stock tree gets root pruned, top pruned and styled with wire" /> </td--> </tr> </table> <table border="0" width="550px" cellpadding="5" style="position:absolute;margin-left:170px;margin-top:450px"><tr><td><p>Even in winter, bonsai can be admired. Member Larry provided this stunning picture of an American Hornbeam. Note the stout trunk which speaks of age, and the delicate ramification of the branches. Winter is a great time to contemplate the deciduous trees and plan for their foliage growth in the year to come. </p></td></tr></table> <table border="0" width="550px" cellpadding="5" style="position:absolute;margin-left:170px;margin-top:510px"><tr><td> <p> Here is the latest newsletter:<br /><br />Eugene Bonsai Society Newsletter<br /> February 2012<br /><br /> Club Website: www.eugenebonsai.org <br /><br /> <strong>Our meetings </strong>are held the first Thursday of the month at 7:00 PM at the Eugene Garden Club building, 1645 High Street. Help table at 6:30 PM.<br /><br /> <strong>Parking -</strong> Parking for the meetings is available in the Planned Parenthood lot across the street from the Garden Club. Do not park in the spaces beside the Garden Club building.<br /><br /> <strong>This Month s Program: </strong>Soil Mixing and Fertilizer Schedule<br /><br /> <strong>Officers for 2012</strong><br /> President: Bill E.<br /> 1st VP, Programs: Philip R.<br /> 2nd VP, Workshops: Tom F.<br /> Secretary: RaeAnn C.<br /> Treasurer: Dean B.<br /> Directors: Harold D., Michele W. and Doris P.<br /> Newsletter: Karen B.<br /> Webmaster: Linda G.<br /> Exhibits: Bill E.<br /><br /> <strong>President s Message:</strong><br /> I would like to start the New Year by thanking everyone who participated in last year s Eugene Bonsai Society and an extra special thanks to the hard work of last year s officers and board. Their extraordinary efforts made 2011 meetings, instruction, workshops, demonstrations, help and advice a lot of fun for us bonsai hobbyists.<br /> The Board of Directors met December 8th to outline an agenda for the 2012 meetings and activities. The programs are based on the results of a survey we did in November. A listing of the programs is printed later in the newsletter.<br /> To augment this year s monthly meeting programs, we have scheduled three workshops, two in early spring, 3/17 and 3/31, with Alan Taft and one in the fall, 10/27, also with Alan. Sign-up sheets for the workshops will be available at the February meeting. These are really fun, informative and cheap as the club absorbs some of the instructional costs.<br /> The annual Asian Celebration is scheduled this year for February 18th and 19th. This is the  Big Deal for the club. At the Asian Celebration the club displays trees, greets the public and answers questions. It also attracts new club members and furthers interest in our hobby. Sign-up sheets for display trees and tree sitters will be available at the February meeting.<br /> At the February meeting we would appreciate members renewing their annual membership dues. The dues will remain the same price as last year $20.00 per individual and $30.00 for the family membership.<br /> Please plan to attend the convention this year. It is in Vancouver, WA (very close), September 14-16, 2012. Registration forms and information will be available at the meeting and also on line.<br /> I am looking forward to seeing all of you at our February meeting; please bring a tree to share. Thank you. W.E.<br /><br /> <strong>Dues for 2012</strong><br /><br /> Membership dues are $20.00 for an individual or $30.00 for a family. The dues may be paid at the February meeting or mailed to: <br /> Burkhart<br /> 1244 Delrose Drive<br /> Springfield, OR 97477 <br /> Payment will assure that you are eligible to participate in the activities of the club such as silent auctions and workshops; and continue to receive the newsletter. <br /> The money from your dues covers the rent for use of the Garden Club building, fees to the State to maintain our non-profit status, insurance for the club, post office box rent, membership in Bonsai Clubs International and the American Bonsai Society, our website, workshop trees and name tags for new members, newsletter mailing expenses, program expenses and subsidizing the cost of our workshops.<br /><br /> <strong>February Tasks</strong><br /> Potting - Whether you are repotting or potting a tree for the first time, now is the time to start. Larches have to be done before the buds break and other trees can be done now and into March. The Kingsville Boxwoods you received at the June workshop need to be put into bonsai pots this Spring. <br /> Do not fertilize deciduous bonsai, but evergreens that are not scheduled for repotting may be fed lightly.<br /><br /> <strong>2012 Door Prizes</strong><br /> This year the club's door prize drawing winner will receive a tree as the prize. There are two requirements for members to have a chance to win the featured tree of the month. The first is that you attend the meeting. The second is that you wear your name tag. If you do this you will be given a ticket and will be entered in the drawing. The tree will be a different species each month and there will be information in the newsletter on the featured species. The door prize for this month will be a Colorado Spruce, Picea pungens. Information on the tree given away each month will be in the newsletter.<br /><br /> <strong>February Program</strong><br /> The program for February will be on soils and fertilizer. This will be a hands on program with soil mixing being a part of the program. We will mix a quantity of soil at the meeting which members can purchase in one gallon bags at club cost. Now is the time to start repotting some of your trees or potting those that you have been growing in nursery pots that need to be in bonsai pots. We will be making two different mixes, one for conifers and one for deciduous trees. If you need soil and have been wondering where to get it, this meeting is the place.<br /><br /> <strong>Asian Festival</strong><br /> The Asian Festival is February 18th and 19th at the Lane Events Center at the Fairgrounds. We as a club participate in the Asian Festival through a major display of member's trees. This is our chance to educate the community about the art of bonsai. Approximately twenty to thirty trees are displayed and the display area is staffed by members of the club. Each year we encourage people from the community to attend our meetings and become members of the club. For the past several years we have increased our membership through this project. <br /> The display area is under the direction of Bill E.. Members bringing trees for display help set up the exhibit on Friday evening, February 17th, starting at 5 PM. On Saturday and Sunday the exhibit needs to be staffed the entire time the Asian Festival is open to the public. The hours are 10 AM to 7 PM on Saturday and 10 AM to 6 PM on Sunday. Ideally three to four people are needed for each shift of 2 to 3 hours. This is a minimum of 12 people per day. Please help out by signing up for a shift or two at the February meeting. Bill will have the sign-up sheets and additional information. Workers get into the Asian Festival free so plan to take advantage of this opportunity.<br /><br /> <strong>Program Schedule for 2012</strong><br /> March Beginner's Workshop (trees furnished by club) for members that have joined since March 2011 <br /> April 3 Ring Circus - Three club members will work on trees which will be raffled after the demonstrations <br /> May Bring Your Own Tree - Styling & Design Help <br /> June Kingsville Boxwood Hands-on Workshop - Bring the Kingsville Boxwood you got last year and we will review their progress and help with styling and design. If you did not get a tree last June and would like one you can sign up at the May meeting to buy one.<br /> July Picnic at Wee Tree<br /> August No meeting <br /> September Bring your Beginner's workshop tree from March or any other tree for review and help with styling and design.<br /> October PNBCA Convention review, highlights and exhibit of trees done in workshops.<br /> November Grafting and Plant Name Taxonomy<br /> December No meeting <br /><br /> <strong>2012 WORKSHOP SCHEDULE -------- SAVE THE DATE!</strong><br /> The club has scheduled 3 workshops for your benefit this year. The first is on Saturday March 17th from 9 AM to 4 PM at the EPUD meeting room. Alan Taft, a long time bonsai expert from Portland, will be teaching this BYOT (Bring Your Own Tree) class. All trees are welcome, especially the returning "Project Old Growth Boxwoods". This workshop is for everyone at any level of bonsai knowledge. Bring your own trees, pots, supplies, wire, tools, etc. Cost is only $40 and is due by the March meeting. As always, observers are welcome. <br /><br /> The second workshop is our annual Beginners Workshop and is on Saturday, March 31st from 9 AM to 4 PM at the EPUD meeting room. This workshop is tailored to bonsai enthusiasts who are newer to the hobby, no previous bonsai experience or knowledge is necessary. It will be taught by Alan Taft. This workshop will be split into two sessions of 3 hours each. In each session, the participants will be supplied with a Shimpaku Juniper to pot and prune and style with Alan's help. Bring your own tools, other supplies will be provided by the club. The cost is only $25 for the 3 hour session, sign up for either the morning or afternoon class. Observers and helpers are welcome.<br /><br /> The third workshop is on Saturday, October 27th, from 9 AM to 4 PM at EPUD It will be taught by Alan Taft and is a BYOT class The cost is $40, and observers are welcome.<br /> EPUD (Emerald Peoples Utility District) is located at 33733 Seavey Loop Rd. which is close to the I-5 and 30th Ave interchange.<br /> The club is subsidizing the cost of these workshops to make them very affordable. EPUD is also graciously giving us the use of their beautiful meeting room at no cost. These workshops are for your education and enjoyment, please participate!!! You will have a good time, learn something new about bonsai, and help your trees along! If you have any questions please call Tom F. at 541-935-7396 in the evenings. Sign up sheets will be at the club meetings, or you can call Tom to sign up. <br /><br /> <strong>KINGSVILLE BOXWOOD REMINDER</strong><br /> Our June regular meeting this year will be to continue working on the Kingsville Boxwoods that we all did at the June meeting last year. If you were planning on repotting your boxwood this year, late February or early March should be a good time to do it. If you have questions on repotting your tree, the February meeting would be a good place to get those answered.<br /><br /> <strong>Colorado Blue Spruce, <i>Picea pungens</i></strong><br /><br /> Native to the S. W. North America this species occurs in many forms in the wild and in cultivation. Blue spruce prefers slightly acid moist soil, otherwise it can become prone to predation by aphids which spoil the color and density of the mature needles and eventually cause defoliation. There are some excellent examples of Spruce bonsai in Europe and Japan; the genus as a whole has some excellent qualities and very often, it is just a question of learning how to work with Spruce and its characteristics so that the best can be made of this tree. Without this knowledge, Spruce can be difficult to style, difficult to encourage the branches to set into new positions through wiring and difficult to create good ramification with little if any prospect of backbudding.<br /> Spruce need full sun, but shade from the midday sun in summer will keep needle browning from happening. These northern trees prefer cool temperatures, although small or young bonsai may need frost protection.<br /> Spruce are sensitive to timing. In particular, styling and wiring must not be carried out while the tree is in active growth as branches are very likely to fail and dieback. Styling is best carried out from late Summer (August) through to the first frosts around November. Styles that are appropriate are: Formal upright; Informal Upright; Slanting; Semi-cascade; Group planting; Saikei. The easiest way to judge the vigor of a Spruce and its individual branches is to look at the number of new buds that have formed, very often at the tips of the foliage, in late Summer. Branches with no buds are very weak and are likely to fail/dieback in the following Spring. These are best left alone. Branches with one bud are weak and will tolerate minor wiring and needle plucking. Branches with two or more buds are strong to very vigorous and all of the techniques described can be applied.<br /> <i>Watering</i>: Spruces prefer moist, but not waterlogged soil. Reduce watering in winter, but never allow the soil to dry out completely.<br /> <i>Feeding</i>: Every two weeks, spring to mid-autumn, using liquid bonsai food or half-strength general purpose fertilizer. In hot areas, discontinue feeding during the heat of summer. Apply a chelated iron supplement several times yearly.<br /> <i>Leaf and Branch Pruning</i>: New growth should be pinched, not clipped, several times in spring, when shoots are about 1 inch long, leaving 4-5 whorls of needles. Do major pruning in early fall. Never remove all needles. <br /> <i>Re-potting & Growing Medium</i>: In general, every 2-3 years in early to mid-spring, before new growth expands, or in early fall. Older specimens (>10 years) may be repotted every 5 years. Prune roots by 1/3. Use a fast-draining soil mix; 1 part Loam, 1 part peat, 1 part sand. Alternatively use 1 Part Akadama and 1 Part Grit or Pumice. Spruce, in general, need to keep a decent-sized root ball, and may need to be planted in a deep pot to achieve this. Protect from full sun for a few weeks after repotting. <br /> <i>Wiring</i>: Wire between late autumn and winter. Spruce have incredibly supple branches. With the use of thick enough wire and guy wires, branches of over 1" can easily be bent without danger of snapping or cracking. Thinner mature branches can be bent and contorted in a variety of directions to bring the foliage closer to the trunk. This suppleness is also problematic; wired mature branches can take years to set into their new position, often requiring repeated rewiring. However, branches that have had twists and turns put into them can set into position within a year.<br /> When branches of any tree species are wired into a new position, the cambium is broken (however minutely) and the repair of the damaged parts of the cambium layer, by the tree, sets the branch into its new position. With Spruce, more manipulation is needed to damage the cambium in order that the tree will be prompted to repair the damage and set the branch. Care must be taken as major manipulation of a Spruce branch in the late Spring and Summer will cause it to dieback very quickly. This is why Spruce should be styled from August onwards. After this time Spruce are very tolerate of all wiring and styling.<br /> <i>Styling</i>: When considering which branches to keep and those to remove, always value and retain those that have foliage closest to the trunk. Though backbudding can be promoted on Spruce, this will always be limited. Do not rely on any backbudding on the trunk or old branches unless the tree has been very heavily pruned back. </p><p><a href="news.html">Top of Page</a></p> </td></tr></table> </body> </html>